Red Light Therapy and Skin Rejuvenation: What Does the Science Say?

I have to say, red light therapy was something my mum first introduced me to - not something out of the ordinary given I owe all of my interest and insights into health and wellness to her. “I’m thinking of getting a red light panel!” I remember her saying. “It helps with eye health, cell and tissue repair, hair growth and anti-ageing”. All music to my ears really, and so, she bought the panel, put it up in a spare room and we each began spending around 30 minutes standing in front of it, basking in the warm glow of the red light. I would be lying if I said I did it frequently (pretty much only when I remember), but this is an ongoing goal for me.

Since then, I have seen red light face masks from various brands, and in-clinic treatments that offer red light therapy as a standalone or add-on treatment to facials and microneedling. This surge in popularity prompted me to explore what exactly the science says about this fascinating skincare technology, and whether it is the skin rejuvenating game changer it is being touted as. Maybe then I will be convinced to use it more regularly.

What is Red Light Therapy?

Red light therapy (RLT) is a type of non-invasive phototherapy that works by exposing the body to specific wavelengths of red and near-infrared light to stimulate various cellular processes. RLT is also referred to by other names, including photobiomodulation, low level light therapy (LLLT), LED therapy and biostimulation.

The discovery of red light therapy is rooted in several scientific milestones. In 1967, Hungarian physician Endre Mester used red lasers on rats to treat malignant tumours, but instead found that it helped to treat the incision wounds and even promoted hair growth. Fast forward to the 1990s, when NASA accidentally stumbled upon RLT’s skin-healing benefits while using red light to promote plant growth in space. NASA scientists noticed that their own skin wounds began healing faster after exposure to the red light.

These discoveries paved the way for red light therapy to be recognised as a valuable medical treatment for wound healing, tissue repair, and skin rejuvenation. In addition to its benefits for skin health, RLT has been found to improve sleep, reduce pain and inflammation, and even support eye, brain, and immune system health.

How Does Red Light Therapy Work?

Red light therapy (RLT) exposes our skin to wavelengths of light in the visible red and near-infrared spectrum. The energy from these wavelengths penetrate the skin and activate and strengthen our mitochondria. The mitochondria are our energy production centres within our cells, producing adenosine triphosphate (ATP) - the molecule that fuels every biological process in the body. Increased ATP levels improves cellular function, stimulates collagen production, promotes tissue repair and reduces oxidative stress in damaged cells - all of which are crucial for maintaining and rejuvenating our skin.

Unlike treatments like lasers and intense pulsed light (IPL), which work by generating heat and causing controlled damage to improve the skin’s appearance, RLT penetrates the skin without any discomfort or damage, making it a completely non-invasive therapy for promoting cellular activity and repair.

What are the Benefits of Red Light Therapy on Skin and Hair?

As discussed, red light therapy (RLT) has been shown to have a number of benefits on the body, however we will be focussing solely on its benefits for our skin and hair in this blog.

It is also important to note that there are fairly limited studies using red light therapy as a skin rejuvenating tool and those that exist are typically animal or lab studies or have a small sample size. The research that does exist though, is quite promising and with minimal reported downsides, it might be worth trialling for yourself:

1. Boosts Collagen Production:

Exposure to red and near-infrared light has been shown to stimulate fibroblast activity - these are the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin in the skin. Collagen is a key structural protein that provides skin with strength and elasticity, while also aiding in the repair of damaged tissue. However, as we age, collagen production naturally declines, leading to common signs of ageing such as wrinkles, sagging, and a loss of firmness.

Research supports the ability of red light therapy (RLT) to combat these effects of ageing. In one study involving 113 participants who received red and near-infrared light treatment twice a week for 30 sessions, there was a significant increase in collagen density and a reduction in visible signs of ageing, particularly in females.

Another study, focused on 83 women aged 40 to 65, evaluated wrinkle reduction following the use of red or amber LED light devices over 10 sessions within 4 weeks. The results were significant, with wrinkle volume reducing by 31.6% after red light exposure and 29.9% after amber light exposure.

2. Reduces Inflammation:

Chronic inflammation is a key factor in many skin conditions, such as acne, psoriasis, rosacea, and even premature ageing. RLT has been shown to reduce inflammation, promote healing, relieve pain, and improve the overall health of the skin. It has also been found to reduce levels of harmful reactive oxygen species (ROS) in stressed cells, which helps to protect the skin from oxidative damage.

In acne management, RLT has demonstrated promising results. In one study, 85% of participants saw a significant reduction in at least 50% of their acne lesions after just four biweekly treatments. This improvement increased to 70-80% three months after the last session. It is believed that RLT penetrates deeply into the skin where it may directly target sebaceous glands and exert anti-inflammatory properties.

3. Speeds up Wound Healing and Skin Barrier Recovery:

RLT has been shown to aid in the recovery of the epidermal barrier - the outermost layer of the skin - following injury. This effect is largely due to how red and near-infrared light enhances mitochondrial activity in our cells, promoting cell proliferation and differentiation, both of which are crucial for wound healing and skin barrier repair. As we discussed earlier, RLT also stimulates collagen production, which also plays a vital role in the wound-healing process.

In a laboratory study, researchers found that exposure to red light for two hours over three consecutive days significantly increased the proliferation of epidermal skin cells—a result that was not observed with blue light. Additionally, another study using pig skin cells demonstrated that red light exposure promoted faster recovery of the epidermal skin barrier following disruption.

4. Improves Skin Texture and Tone:

RLT has also been shown to enhance skin texture, particularly for individuals dealing with acne scarring or other forms of skin scarring. Beyond its ability to promote healing and reduce inflammation, many people report a noticeable improvement in their complexion, often describing their skin as having a more radiant, glowing appearance after RLT treatments.

In the study previously mentioned, which involved 113 participants treated with red and near-infrared light, researchers found that in addition to increased collagen density, participants experienced significantly improved skin texture and complexion and measurements of skin roughness showed notable improvements.

5. Increases Hair Growth and Reduces Hair Loss:

RLT has also been shown to reduce hair loss, particularly in cases of androgenetic alopecia - the most common form of hair loss. By boosting blood flow to the scalp and reducing inflammation, RLT stimulates hair follicles and extends the hair growth phase.

In one laboratory study, low-level red light (650nm) promoted the growth of human hair follicles and prolonged the growth phase by delaying the transition from the anagen phase to the catagen phase of the hair cycle.

Another study showed that RLT had similar efficacy for hair growth to the commonly used treatment for hair loss, Minoxidil. When used in combination, it was even more effective. While more research is needed, RLT shows promise as a non-invasive, effective option for hair regrowth, especially for those looking for an alternative to Minoxidil.

What to Consider Before Trying Red Light Therapy?

Overall, red light therapy (RLT) appears to be a safe treatment with no major side effects reported in existing research. The studies so far show promising results, especially when it comes to improving skin health and hair growth.

However, as with any treatment, it is essential to consult with a healthcare professional before starting RLT if you have underlying health conditions. Additionally, since there isn’t enough research on the use of RLT during pregnancy, it’s best to err on the side of caution and avoid it during this time.

With the right guidance, RLT could be a beneficial addition to our wellness and skincare routines.

Where and How to Use Red Light Therapy?

If you do want to explore red light therapy (RLT) for your skin and hair health, the next question you might have is whether to go to a clinic or use an at-home device:

1. Clinic Treatments:

Professional RLT treatments typically delivers the red light at a higher frequency and with higher intensity. This penetrates the skin more deeply and can offer faster results. Generally fewer sessions are required compared to at-home devices to achieve desired results, making it a great option for more immediate improvements. Also, RLT can also be used in conjunction with other treatments within a clinic, offering additional skin benefits.

2. At-Home Devices:

These can vary quite significantly in terms of type and intensity. RLT devices include face masks, wands, handheld panels, whole body panels or a lamp. Whether you are looking for a targeted skin RLT device or more whole body will influence which device you decide to go for. It is essential to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using any at-home device.

The frequency of RLT sessions can vary depending on the strength of the device being used. It is always best to follow the specific recommendations provided by your clinician or the device manufacturer.

Interestingly, one study found that 2-3 sessions per week were more effective in reducing wrinkles compared to daily use. However, the intensity of the device in this study may differ from others, so it is important to adhere to the guidance for your specific device to achieve the best results.

Disclaimer: advice on this site is not a substitute for advice from a medical practitioner. If you have concerns, consult your medical practitioner first.